到吉林賞霧凇
作者 王永利
在北方，在萬物蕭疏的冬季，除了呼嘯的寒風(fēng)和凜冽的寒流外，大地似乎缺乏了生氣，沒有一點(diǎn)色彩。人在這個時候也往往情緒低落，古人稱“傷秋”或“傷冬”?？墒桥笥眩谶@個時候，大自然給北方人以驚喜，這個驚喜是雪，美麗的雪景讓北方人有一個美麗的冬天，而驚喜中的驚喜，那就是大自然賜予的珍品禮物——霧凇。
霧凇像雪一樣，呈現(xiàn)著“忽如一夜春風(fēng)來，千樹萬樹梨花開”的壯麗奇觀。但是在北方冬季沒有雪的時候，只有在吉林這個地方，也可以呈現(xiàn)瓊瑤滿樹、銀花滿枝的奇觀——這就是有名的吉林霧凇，其壯美的景象可以和桂林山水、云南石林、長江三峽媲美，被稱為中國的四大自然奇觀之一，每年都吸引幾萬中外游人遠(yuǎn)道來此觀賞呢。
為什么偏偏吉林這個地方受到老天的厚愛、有此得天獨(dú)厚奇觀呢？導(dǎo)游會告訴你：這是“嚴(yán)寒的大氣和溫暖的江水”互相作用而成的。吉林市冬季氣候嚴(yán)寒，清晨一般都在零下20—25℃，盡管松花湖面上結(jié)了1米厚的堅冰，而從松花湖大壩底部豐滿水電站水閘放出來的湖水卻在零上4℃。這25—30℃的溫差使得湖水剛一出閘，就如開鍋般地騰起濃霧。數(shù)十里云霧長龍當(dāng)它們撞擊地物表面后，會迅速凍結(jié)，形成霧凇。由于霧凇中霧滴與霧滴間空隙很多，因此霧凇呈完全不透明的白色。霧凇輕盈潔白，附著在樹木物體上，宛如瓊樹銀花，清秀雅致，又稱樹掛(或雪掛)。吉林市松花江畔的霧凇奇景，馳譽(yù)東亞。其持續(xù)時間也長，據(jù)吉林氣象站記錄，吉林霧凇季節(jié)一般從每年的11月下旬開始，到次年的3月上旬結(jié)束。
我到吉林市采訪，有緣見到了這一奇觀。那是一天清晨，吉化工廠的宣傳員硬是把我塞進(jìn)一輛旅游車，說“王老師，今天不干別的，你就去賞霧凇吧，盡管東北好久不下雪了，可是我們這的霧凇可壯觀了，不去看看會后悔一輩子的！”
到了江邊，果然眼前出現(xiàn)了我從未見過的壯觀景象，數(shù)十公里長的松江兩岸一片銀白，江畔長堤上的一排排大柳樹成了“白發(fā)三千丈”的雪柳，一棵棵蒼松則成了“玉菊怒放”的雪松。美麗的霧凇輕柔豐盈、婀娜多姿、美麗絕倫。這里仿佛成了如詩如畫的仙境。導(dǎo)游背誦著江澤民同志撰寫的詩句“寒江雪柳日新晴，玉樹瓊花滿目春。歷盡天華成此景，人間萬事出艱辛?！逼浔扔餍稳莺脱矍暗拿谰皹O為貼切。
而霧凇中的最動人的美景是吉林市民，特別是美麗的姑娘們穿得花枝招展，歡天喜地地在霧凇中擺各種優(yōu)美的姿勢拍照，讓游客們大飽眼福。隨著人們生活水平的提高，無論是姑娘還是小伙子，無論是老人還是孩子，每個人臉上都流露著由衷的喜悅，他們健康的膚色和美麗的衣著透露著生活殷實(shí)，他們臉上燦爛的笑容表明對現(xiàn)實(shí)生活的滿足。“再來一張，這太漂亮了。你瞧，那棵樹掛更美，在那再拍一張！”歡聲笑語不絕于耳。人在畫中游，笑在畫中留。人們在如詩如畫的霧凇中留下的不僅僅是美好的回憶，還有對美好明天的向往，對輝煌未來的期待和憧憬。
柳樹結(jié)銀花，松樹綻銀菊，在欣賞美景的同時，人們也在呼吸著最新鮮最清潔的空氣。特別是清爽的新鮮空氣吸入肺部，我感覺非常滋潤，十分陶醉，精神氣爽。這對于我這個久在干燥的大城市工作生活的人來說，這里成了天然的氧吧。據(jù)導(dǎo)游介紹，霧凇還是“環(huán)境衛(wèi)士”、“長壽素”，它有消塵滅菌、促進(jìn)新陳代謝和加速血液循環(huán)等功能，可調(diào)整神經(jīng)，提高人體免疫力和體質(zhì)。在出現(xiàn)濃密霧凇時，因不封凍的江面在低溫條件下，水滴分裂蒸發(fā)大量水汽，形成了“噴電效應(yīng)”，因而促進(jìn)了空氣離子化，也就是在有霧凇時，負(fù)氧離子增多。據(jù)測，在有霧凇時，吉林松花江畔負(fù)氧離子每立方厘米可達(dá)上千至數(shù)千個，比沒有霧凇時的負(fù)氧離子可多5倍以上。
導(dǎo)游總是在說自己的家鄉(xiāng)美，其中“忽悠”的成分，我估計也占一定比例。但是，吉林霧凇儀態(tài)萬方、獨(dú)具豐韻的奇觀，的確讓絡(luò)繹不絕的中外游客贊不絕口。
朋友，有機(jī)會你一定要到吉林去看看霧凇，吉林霧凇的確“名不虛傳，天下第一”！
Enjoying Rime in Jilin
By Wang Yongli
In the north of China, the land becomes empty in winter. Aside from the howling winds and piercingly cold currents, the earth seems to lack vigor and fresh colour. The people feel often depressed, the ancients calling it "autumn injury " or " winter injury". But friends, it is at this time that nature presents a surprise to the northern people. The surprise is the snow, and the beauty of the snow makes the winter of northern China picturesque. To make the thing more surprising, nature presents another treasure– rime.
The rime is as beautiful as the snow. Tang Dynasty poet Cen Can wrote a poem: "The north wind rolls over the white grass and breaks it; the snow across the tartar sky of the eighth month is like a spring gale, coming up in the night, blowing open the petals of ten thousand pear trees.” The rime is a similarly magnificent wonder. But where in the north has such beautiful scenery? I would say that only in Jilin province can you see such magnificent wonders. White jade covered trees and white flower filled branches—this is the famous Jilin rime! It is comparable to the magnificent Guilin scenery, the Yunnan Stone Forest, and the Yangtze River’s Three Gorges, China's four natural wonders, and every year attracts tens of thousands of Chinese and foreign tourists.
Why does God love Jilin so much and endow such a natural wonder upon it? A tour guide will tell you it is formed by the interaction of cold air and warm water. In Jilin province the winter climate is chilly in the morning, generally - 20-25℃. Despite Songhua Lake having one metre thick ice, you will see a flowing current from the sluice dam of the Fengman Hydropower Station with a temperature of 4℃. The 25-30℃. temperature difference makes the water from the gate rise like fog. Once the dozen kilometres of fog touch the land it quickly freezes, forming the rime. Because there are many gaps between the droplets, the rime is completely opaque white. When the soft white rime attaches to objects like trees, it looks like the branches have white flowers in full bloom, comely, refined, miraculous. The Jilin Songhua River rime is well known in East Asia. It lasts for a long time according to the Jilin meteorological station records, the rime season begins from late November and remains until next year’s early March.
Fortunately I saw the miracle once when I went to Jilin to visit some friends. It was early morning and an auspicious promoter persuaded me onto a tourist bus and said: "Teacher Wang, today please do nothing but enjoy the rime. Although the northeast does not snow for a long time, the rime can be spectacular. If you don’t go have a look, you will regret it all your life!"
The river appeared in front of me; I had never seen such a spectacle. The Songjiang River was dozens of kilometres long, with a swift current, both banks covered with white snow and ice. The rows of willow looked like "three thousand feet of snowy white hair", and the pine trees looked like "jade chrysanthemums in full bloom". The rime was very pretty and charming, beautiful and gentle. It seemed to be a picturesque wonderland. The poem of Comrade Jiang Zemin goes as follows: "the cold river and snowy willows make the day fresh and fine, the white flowers and jade trees seem as spring. Through the days nature created this scene and all things in the world out of hardship." It is a very appropriate metaphor to describe the beautiful scenery.
While the most touching beauty in the rime were the people of Jilin, especially the beautiful girls all dolled up, making various graceful poses for the camera and the tourists. The standard of everybody’s lives are enhanced, girl and boy, old and young, every face reveals heartfelt joy, their healthy skin and beautiful clothes revealing a rich life, their shining smiles showing real life satisfaction. "One more picture! It's so beautiful. With the trees will be even more beautiful. Please one more shot!" Endless laughter could be heard. People walked through the painting leaving a trail of smiles. In the picturesque rime what they left good memories, and took an expectation for a better tomorrow and a longing for a brilliant future.
Willows bloom silver flowers and pine trees bloom jade chrysanthemums. While appreciating beauty, at the same time people breathe the freshest clean air. When I inhaled the air into my lungs it felt very moist and the vigor of my spirit seemed to enhance. There is a bar on natural oxygen for people like me who have lived and worked in a big dry city for a long time. According to the introduction rime is an "environmental guardian”, "longevity factor", and has the functions of dust elimination, sterilization, promotion of the new over the old, and acceleration of blood circulation. It also can adjust one’s nervous system, improving immunity and overall health. In the thick of rime, under low temperatures the thawed river evaporates water vapor, forming an "electric spray effect" and promoting air ionization. According to the survey, on the banks of Jilin’s Songhua River, negative oxygen ions per cubic centimetre number from one thousand and can be than more than five times this when there is no rime.
Some tour guides might say their hometown is the best, and there is some exaggeration, I estimate, for a certain proportion. However, Chinese and foreign tourists do praise Jilin rime for its distinguished air of elegance, coquetry and uniquely charming wonder.
Friends, if you have the opportunity to visit Jilin you had better have a look for the rime, for the Jilin rime has a well-deserved reputation as “the best in all the land!"
